Arles: Van Gogh’s City of Light and Ancient Arenas

May 21

INTRODUCTION: Where Sunlight Meets Stone and Madness Meets Genius

It starts with the light.

Not the gentle, moody shimmer of Paris, or the cool misty glow of Normandy. No, in Arles, the light is bold. It’s blinding. It’s unapologetically golden. It hits the ochre walls and Roman stone and makes the whole town shimmer like a dream—or, perhaps, a hallucination.

This was the light that drew Vincent van Gogh south in 1888.

Restless and manic, with Paris's grey skies eating away at his spirit, Van Gogh boarded a train for the South of France with a single purpose: to find a new kind of color. And he found it in Arles.

Here, he painted over 300 works in just over a year—among them The Yellow House, Bedroom in Arles, and Starry Night Over the Rhône. He painted the town’s winding streets, the cafés, the local postman’s family. But Arles gave him more than just inspiration. It gave him a descent into madness, a severed ear, a legacy.

And yet, long before Van Gogh ever arrived, Arles was already legendary.

This is a city where you can sip wine next to Roman ruins. Where gladiators once fought under the same sun that now powers Provencal markets. Where centuries of history layer over each other like paint on Van Gogh’s canvas: Roman, medieval, Provençal, post-Impressionist.

Arles is one of the most underrated destinations in France—and one of the most soul-stirring.

So, whether you’re here for the art, the architecture, or just the sunlight, let’s take a deep dive into Van Gogh’s muse and one of France’s oldest treasures.

1. A BRIEF HISTORY OF ARLES: FROM ROME TO RENAISSANCE

Arles was once one of the most important cities in the Roman Empire.

Founded by the Greeks, conquered by the Romans, and elevated under Julius Caesar, Arles (known as Arelate back then) became a hub of trade, culture, and military power. At its peak, it rivaled Marseille in influence.

The city boasts a stunning array of Roman monuments:

The Arena (Arènes d’Arles): Built around 90 AD, this amphitheater once hosted gladiator games and could hold over 20,000 spectators.
The Roman Theater: Slightly older than the arena, this theater still echoes with the ghosts of ancient performances.
The Cryptoporticus: A mysterious underground passage system dating back to the 1st century BC.

Arles stayed important through the early medieval period, becoming a religious center and royal city, but it was Van Gogh who would later give it immortality in modern imagination.

2. FOLLOWING VAN GOGH'S FOOTSTEPS THROUGH ARLES

Van Gogh didn’t come to Arles as a tourist—he came as a man on the edge. But his time here was wildly productive and deeply influential.

Notable Van Gogh Spots:

The Yellow House: Though it was destroyed in WWII, you can still visit the site at Place Lamartine and imagine the tiny studio where Van Gogh dreamed of an artists’ collective.
The Café Terrace at Night: Still operating today as Le Café Van Gogh, the vibrant yellow façade on Place du Forum is straight out of his iconic painting.
The Hospital of Arles (Espace Van Gogh): Where Van Gogh was taken after the ear incident. It’s now a tranquil courtyard filled with flowers.
Starry Night Over the Rhône: Head to the riverbank at dusk and you’ll recognize the exact spot Van Gogh painted one of his most ethereal scenes.

For art lovers, the Fondation Vincent van Gogh offers exhibitions that connect his work with contemporary artists, honoring his vision without reducing it to nostalgia.

3. THE ARENA OF ARLES: FROM GLADIATORS TO GUARDIANS

Imagine standing in an ancient Roman amphitheater, the warm Provençal sun on your face, as you look around a structure that has stood for nearly 2,000 years.

The Arènes d’Arles is smaller than the Colosseum but no less impressive. And unlike many ruins, it’s still alive. You can still attend:

Camargue bullfights: A local, non-lethal form of bull games that celebrates agility over violence.
Historical reenactments: Complete with Roman costumes, horses, and battle scenes.
Summer concerts and events: Modern use in an ancient shell.

Climbing to the top gives you a view of the city and its terracotta rooftops—proof of how past and present coexist here in harmony.

4. ROMAN RUINS & THE EVERYDAY ARLES EXPERIENCE

Arles is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and it’s not hard to see why. Within a few blocks, you’ll encounter:

The Alyscamps: A Roman necropolis turned medieval Christian burial ground. Van Gogh painted this haunting avenue of tombs and trees.
The Baths of Constantine: Public Roman baths that once buzzed with gossip and politics.
The Romanesque Saint-Trophime Church: Famous for its carved portal and cloister. A must-see for fans of medieval sculpture.

Yet, Arles is far from being a dusty museum. Its markets are vibrant, its cafés full of life, and its streets echo with Provençal dialect and laughter.

5. THE CAMARGUE: ARLES'S UNTAMED BACKYARD

Just south of Arles lies the Camargue—a wild, flat region of salt marshes, pink flamingos, black bulls, and white horses. It’s one of Europe’s most unique ecosystems and is closely tied to Arles culturally and economically.

Day trips to the Camargue are a must if you want to:

See traditional gardians (French cowboys) herd bulls.
Visit Aigues-Mortes or Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, two historic, windswept towns.
Try fleur de sel and bull meat (taureau)—both local specialties.
Photograph the famous white horses galloping in shallow water at sunset.

It’s rugged, romantic, and so deeply French it feels like a movie set.

6. FESTIVALS IN ARLES: WHERE TRADITION AND ART COLLIDE

Arles is not just a place to see history—it’s a place that lives it. The city hosts some of France’s most dynamic festivals:

Rencontres d’Arles

One of the world’s most prestigious photography festivals, held every summer. The entire city turns into a gallery with exhibitions in chapels, cloisters, warehouses, and open-air venues.

Feria d’Arles

Twice a year (April and September), this massive celebration of bullfighting and Camargue culture transforms the city. Expect processions, music, dancing, and packed arenas.

Drôle de Noël

A quirky winter festival that turns the historic town into a surreal Christmas fair, full of puppets, lights, and theatrical performances.

These festivals show that Arles is not frozen in time—it’s constantly reinventing itself.

7. PROVENÇAL CHARM: WHAT TO DO WHEN YOU’RE NOT SIGHTSEEING

Beyond monuments and museums, Arles is a place to feel. A place to slow down, sip wine, and bask in the sun.

Market Days

Held every Wednesday and Saturday, Arles’ open-air market is one of the biggest in Provence. You’ll find everything from lavender sachets to Camargue rice to goat cheese that will ruin you for all others.

Café Life

Sit outside, order a glass of pastis (anise-flavored apéritif), and people-watch like the locals do. You’ll pick up bits of French conversation and feel like you’re part of a painting.

River Walks

Stroll along the Rhône at sunset, and you’ll understand why Van Gogh couldn’t stop painting this place. The light really is that magical.

8. ARLES FOR ART LOVERS: BEYOND VAN GOGH

While Van Gogh left the biggest mark, he wasn’t the only artist inspired by Arles. The town continues to attract creative minds.

Fondation Luma

A futuristic art center set in a Frank Gehry-designed tower, blending contemporary art with social experimentation. It’s bold, provocative, and the perfect contrast to Arles’s ancient sites.

Contemporary Galleries

Wander the old town and you’ll stumble upon indie galleries, experimental exhibits, and working artists’ studios. Arles is a hub for creatives year-round.

9. PRACTICAL TIPS FOR VISITING ARLES

Getting there: Take a train from Avignon or Marseille—both under an hour away.
When to visit: Spring and fall are ideal. Summer can be hot and crowded.
Language tip: While many people speak English, making an effort in French will open doors and hearts.

Even learning a few simple phrases like “Où est la gare ?” or “Je voudrais un café crème” can transform your experience.

10. WHY ARLES FEELS LIKE NOWHERE ELSE

In Arles, time doesn’t follow the usual rules.

You’ll walk from a Roman coliseum into a Van Gogh painting. From a medieval cloister into a cutting-edge art gallery. From the past into the present without skipping a beat.

And through it all, there’s the light.

The light that turned Van Gogh’s madness into masterpieces. The light that glints off ancient stone. The light that bathes every café, every shuttered window, every cobblestoned street in warm, golden memory.

Arles isn’t just a place to visit. It’s a place to feel. To reflect. To create. To understand that beauty, madness, and history can all exist on the same block.

WANT TO BRING FRANCE CLOSER TO YOUR EVERYDAY LIFE?

At Polyglottist Language Academy, we believe that language is more than grammar—it’s a doorway into culture, art, and personal transformation.

Whether you’re captivated by Van Gogh’s brushstrokes or Roman arches, learning French will deepen your connection to places like Arles. We offer in-person and online classes designed to fit your lifestyle—and spark your curiosity.

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